
Burgundy
Episode 10 | 45m 18sVideo has Closed Captions
James is in Burgundy, a region famous for its wines and mustard fields.
James is in Burgundy, a region famous for its wines and mustard fields. James visits the region’s capital, Dijon. He tours a factory, which gives his Granny’s gingerbread a run for its money before turning his hand to making the city’s more famous export, mustard. After all the hard work of mustard making, James returns to the vineyard to cook chicken livers and chanterelles on toast.
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Burgundy
Episode 10 | 45m 18sVideo has Closed Captions
James is in Burgundy, a region famous for its wines and mustard fields. James visits the region’s capital, Dijon. He tours a factory, which gives his Granny’s gingerbread a run for its money before turning his hand to making the city’s more famous export, mustard. After all the hard work of mustard making, James returns to the vineyard to cook chicken livers and chanterelles on toast.
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Where to Watch James Martin’s French Adventure
James Martin’s French Adventure is available to stream on pbs.org and the PBS app.
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship[theme music] Bienvenue, France.
That's welcome to France to you and me.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): I'm traveling throughout this beautiful country to explore the very best in French cuisine.
Bon appetit.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): It's a personal journey.
It's where I learned to cook.
Magical times.
Magical times.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And it was the home and inspiration for one of my biggest food heroes, Keith Floyd.
And what's more, I bought his motor.
This was Keith Floyd's very own car for 16 years.
And it's now mine.
Gives me goosebumps.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): So join me as I rediscover the food destination that has it all.
This is really, really delicious.
Mm, mm, mm!
♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ [quirky music] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Today, my French adventure brings me to a region that boasts beautiful pinot noirs, chardonnays, Chablis, and Beaujolais.
Yes, it's easy to see why wine buffs love it here in Burgundy.
Cycling wine buffs, too.
[bike chimes] Now, all these vines are full of the famous pinot noir grape, and it's used to make classic Burgundy.
And not surprisingly, this spot was a favorite of Mr.
Floyd when he came here 30 years ago.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Burgundy lies in East Central France, where a landscape of rolling valleys and vineyards plays host to the waterways of the Yonne River and the Saone, and a sprinkling of mustard fields produces the famous namesake of the region's capital, Dijon.
But right now, my nose is drawn exclusively to wine, but not too much of it, because I'm driving.
Now, I'm heading to Dijon and I couldn't help but stop off at my next place.
Don't worry.
Don't need to put your brakes in my back.
I've got the director slamming his foot in my back.
♪ ♪ Trust me, if you ever saw him drive, you'd see the funny side of it.
♪ ♪ JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): What I was trying to say is we're heading to one of Keith Floyd's favorite vineyards, and we might even get there if the director quits the back seat driving.
Got a foot mark in my back.
♪ ♪ JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): This is Francois Leclerc.
His family have been running their winery since the early '60s.
It's become known for its mature vines of around 50 to 80 years old, above all else, for its pinot noir, one of the most delicate and difficult grapes to cultivate.
It was Francois' dad who gave Keith a grand tour of this very vineyard all those years ago.
And now it's my turn.
♪ ♪ Francois, what a beautiful cellar.
Thank you.
It's fantastic.
And all these barrels, what is this, 2015?
2015, yes.
JAMES: And these are oak barrels?
FRANCOIS: It's oak barrels, yes.
And how long do you keep the wine in here?
I keep during one year, 18 months, 6 months in vat and one year in barrel.
JAMES: OK, so it's a mixture of that and barrel to mature the wine as well.
And literally it was 30 years ago when Floyd was here-- FRANCOIS: Yes.
--cooking as well, as well as tasting the wine.
You were what, 13, 14?
Well, 14, 15, yes.
And were you interested in the business then or-- I just start.
I start at 17, so in '92, a little bit later.
Now, particularly this wine and this region uses one particular grape, the famous, well, pinot noir.
We just use pinot noir to make red wine, yes, in Bourgogne.
Now you've got something very special here.
Yes, I find a 1987, when the chef tastes with my parents.
JAMES: OK, so can we try it?
Yes.
- OK.
- With pleasure.
So it's quite interesting when you see it like this, that when they store it, it hasn't got any labels on it.
They just put basically just chalk or something like that on it.
And then when they want to label it, they clean the bottle and they stick the label on just in case one of the bottles breaks and it ruins all the labels.
[cork pops] Sounds good.
FRANCOIS: Sounds good.
JAMES: It smells good.
FRANCOIS: Yes, it smells earthy.
Mm.
He's not giving it away, really.
I love my wine.
OK.
Well, cheers.
- Santé.
[glasses clink] Cheers to the great man.
What do you feel?
Tastes good.
It's young for a old wine.
It tastes young.
It is really unusual because normally when you get something-- '87 is not old when you think of wine, but-- but it is really nearly 30 years old.
And you get something like this.
You'd normally have to decant it and let it breathe and let it air.
But it's because of the grape, the pinot noir.
It really helps it.
Pinot noir is finesse and elegance, not a big, big wine like a Syrah or Cabernet.
It's pretty good, that.
If you press directly pinot noir, you make a white wine.
In Champagne, blanc de noir, make with pinot noir.
Yeah.
So you can make white wine with pinot noir.
You use the skins, the tanning from the skins, to make the wine red.
That's what gives it its unique flavor as well.
So what makes a good wine from this region?
What makes this region so special?
The grapes, exposition, the soil, the guy, the winemaker.
It's-- it's a mix a lot of combination.
And is 2016 going to be a good year?
For the moment, no problems.
But if it starts raining or we have hail, we can lost everything the day before harvest.
I'll tell you-- I'll do you a deal.
In 30 years' time, if I'm still around, I come back and taste it.
2016.
If you want to come you can every year, no problem.
It's a good deal for me, isn't it?
Rob, clear off.
[quirky music] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): I can definitely see why Floyd loved this place, but I better get back up to ground level or nobody's going to get fed.
I can think of worse places to cook.
♪ ♪ Now, when I thought about this idea for this road trip, this is kind of what I had in mind, really looking at old Floyd clips.
I didn't want to sort of emulate him because he's a bit of a legend, isn't he, really?
But to drive his whole car around these parts, it kind of belongs here.
And he loved this place and he loved the food from it.
Now you can split it into two main categories, one of which is what I'm going to do now, which is basically a mustard sauce.
Now, Dijon is just literally a stone throws away from here with cream, a little bit of brandy, just a touch of parsley-- really simple, classic cooking.
The other one is slow cooking-- nice rich flavors with using the red wine in a classic bourguignon sauce.
But what I'm going to do for this one is keep it nice and simple, nice and classic.
Basically, you're just going to saute some potatoes.
Now you need plenty of butter with this, so plenty of butter into our pan.
And then I've got these little fellows over here, these little Ratte potatoes.
They're going to go in.
Now, I've par cooked these potatoes.
Definition of shallow frying is half immersed in fat, which they are.
And I'm going to add to some of this wonderful garlic.
Just look at that.
Just fabulous stuff.
And all I'm going to do that is again, keep it quite rustic.
That's the key to this sort of cooking.
Chop the clove like this and throw the entire lot in.
Skin and everything.
You just want to cook it down gently with the potatoes.
Now, this is the classic sort of accompaniment to go with a nice mustardy sort of sauce around here.
Veal, and I've got this-- rosé veal you can have at home.
This is a scallop of veal, nice and simple.
What I'm going to do is take a little bit more butter-- over here, Rob, in the pan, nice and hot.
And throw our veal in the pan.
Get a nice color on this.
[sizzling] Now a little bit of black pepper on here.
Don't season it with salt until after it's cooked.
It basically just draws out the moisture, really.
Turn it over.
Rosé veal is what you've got to look out for, as well.
But you can cook it like steak.
You can still serve it nice and pink in the middle.
But we've got the potatoes cooking.
This is going to take another couple of minutes.
Meanwhile, Rob will take you on a little journey of this place.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Did you know that Burgundy produces around 200 million bottles of wine each year?
But surprisingly, it just represents 3% of France's production.
Well, now you do.
Anyway, where were we?
JAMES: So, for the sauce, I'm going to keep this really simple.
Bit of shallot.
We take our veal off out of our pan and drain off the liquor, and then put our onions in the pan.
My tea towel is on fire as well.
Look.
♪ ♪ Mind the veal.
CREW: Sorry JAMES: Anyway, tea towel's slightly better color than the onions after that.
Next, we're going to use some of this.
This is sort of French brandy, really.
Around these parts, it's produced in Dijon.
It's quite a funky sort of taste really with this I'm just going to flambé this.
Like I said, in the comfort of your own kitchen, you can flambé it.
Me?
Field, blowtorch.
Double cream going in the pan.
Now what I'm going to do is bring this to the boil and reduce this down for a couple of minutes.
Rob, just take a shot of some grapes and stuff.
[music playing] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Right.
Well, time for another interesting fact.
There's evidence to suggest that wine has been produced in Burgundy since the fourth century.
I wonder if Francois has any in his cellar from then.
Anyway, moving on.
Whenever you're doing mustard in a dish, there's obviously two main types.
There's a lighter color and a darker color.
The darker color you generally don't cook with, the lighter color you do.
But always add the mustard at the end, whether it be grain mustard or this classic Dijon mustard.
It just retains the flavor nicely.
And we can pop our veal back in.
And then finally, just a bit of chopped parsley, some salt, a little bit more pepper, maybe a touch of parsley in the potatoes.
Switch everything off.
Let me pop the garlic and the potatoes in all of them.
This looks far nicer when you just put it all on.
We've got our lovely pieces of veal and, of course, our sauce-- our sauce moutarde.
It's important to add the mustard right at the last minute so you retain all that lovely color.
Now, I've got to do this properly, because they keep telling me on the show that I've got to make sure it looks pretty.
So we get our tablecloth.
And then I was thinking about this, you see.
I'm going to decorate this with a fleurons.
Now, when Keith was here, '86 '87, I was probably in a kitchen somewhere making these little puff pastry fleurons.
Less is more.
I think Keith might be happy with that.
Cheers, all.
[quirky music] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Gorgeous or what?
My pan fried scallop of veal with sauteed Ratte potatoes and a creamy mustard sauce, and I didn't even have to spend hours making puff pastry.
My culinary odyssey through France has brought me to beautiful Burgundy, one of the nation's most famous wine regions.
But it's not all about the plonk.
Now, every now and then the producer of this show comes up with some amazing ideas.
And for his next trip, he's told me there's a gingerbread factory with a difference.
Better be good.
My granny's gingerbread was amazing.
[classical music] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Ah, it looks like Granny's got competition.
This is Mulot & Petitjean, home of the last master gingerbread makers in Dijon.
Descendants of the Mulot and Petitjean families have been baking here for over 200 years.
But it's down in the factory where the magic really happens-- like these nonnettes, meaning little nuns.
Tiny pastries filled with orange jam and glazed with icing.
[quirky music] ♪ ♪ Now I want to get closer to the action.
But before I do that, it seems I have to follow a strict dress code.
I feel like a giant tea bag.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Well, at least I'm not alone.
There's lots of people wearing tea bags here.
As well as nonnettes, these chaps are making their speciality, pain d'epices, to its original, centuries old recipe.
It's often referred to as gingerbread, but it's actually a little bit different.
Introduced from Flanders in the 1700s, it's a dense, sweet bread made with honey and spices.
♪ ♪ So if I put this recipe in my cookbook, you might need to adapt it a little bit.
Reduce the quantity down a touch.
We're now up to 150 kilo.
So even our director would struggle to eat this.
Now, if you thought that was a lot of dough-- Rob, come here-- every single one of these is full of 550 kilos of dough.
Now, this is actually the first initial stage.
This is just flour, sugar, and honey.
Nothing else.
There's no spices in there, nothing.
Then what's going to happen now, it's going to go into this machine.
It's basically like a spiral mixer.
And then he's going to add a mixture of egg yolks, orange flavoring, and then crucially, the spices.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Once the flavorings have been added, the mix is rolled and then shaped before going into the oven to be baked.
♪ ♪ JAMES: What a fantastic oven.
Now, this oven was built before the 1950s.
And they say if they change the oven, it changes the entire structure of the gingerbread.
So they've got to keep these things going.
It's like an old car.
But the true test is always in the taste.
You can definitely smell the orange.
It's got a different texture to gingerbread as we know it in the UK.
Almost like spongy.
It's good, though.
♪ ♪ There you have it.
How cool is that?
[puffs] It's hot in there.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): When a recipe survives the test of time, you know it's a good one.
And that's certainly the case for my next dish-- this classic beef bourguignon with delicious chantenay carrots.
Oh, and let me introduce you to a friend of mine.
Now meet Eric.
He's got a belly full of Burgundy, which I'm going to use in one of France's most famous main courses, beef bourguignon.
And it uses this amazing Burgundy wine.
It really is fantastic stuff, this.
And I'm going to use this to make our beef stew.
So just running through the ingredients, you've got some lardons got onions, garlic.
We've got some mushrooms, some baby onions, obviously a bit of beef, touch of flour, some amazing Burgundy wine, and then a little bit of beef stock.
So the first thing we're going to do is create the fat to seal off our meat.
And for that, we need some lardons.
Just some normal bacon.
And we just gently cook this down to render the fat, but to also crisp it up.
Now, at the same time, we're going to add some onion, which we're going to dice up.
All the while, keep your eye on the lardons.
In essence, this is like a beef stew, but using red wine at its heart because that's the predominant flavor in this, that amazing Burgundy.
And you can't really replicate it with any other wine.
It's got to be proper Burgundy.
So we just take this out now.
We're going to crisp these up a little bit later.
Don't matter about a few bits in there because then it's about the beef, and you need to seal off the beef.
And for that, make sure the pan is really hot.
Give you time to have another glass.
[sizzling] Anyway, on with the cooking.
You see the meat is starting to color a bit now.
Get a nice brown tinge to it.
And now we can throw in our onions.
Throw the lardons in, a bit of garlic.
Then a good glug of Burgundy.
[sizzling] And what I like to use is a combination of the two, really, some beef stock.
Now all it needs now is a little bouquet garni, which is a combination of herbs tied together.
It's a little bay leaf, a few bits of thyme, something like that.
Then you wrap it up in a bit of string.
Now you've got different varieties of bouquet garni, some of which look like a tea bag.
That is a bouquet garni.
Stick it in there.
Now we bring this to the boil-- and it smells amazing already.
[sniffs] And gently simmer this for about an hour.
Gives it enough time to finish this off, doesn't it really?
He is cool, this little fella.
And he's actually got friends.
Look.
These.
Another one.
And what's great about these is they're classed as hunting cups.
So they would not only look beautiful, but when you turn them over, you've got something to drink out of.
I prefer a bigger glass.
Now the beef is cooking away nicely.
We're going to finish this off with a garnish.
But the veg that I'm going to serve with this is just some carrots simply cooked.
I'm gonna grab some water and a good pinch of sugar.
And that's the great tip with carrots.
Sweeten them up with a bit more sugar, a good pinch of salt, and then a little knob of butter inside.
Now, I'm going to cook these type of carrots.
These are French.
They call chantenay little short stubby things.
And we pop these into our pan.
I'm going to boil these up for about 10 minutes, which gives enough time to finish off the garnish for our bourguignon.
So for that, you need these little pearl onions.
You can get away with shallots but these are the little fellas that you need, these tiny onions and some mushrooms.
And we saute the whole lot in a pan.
Now, there are so many dishes in France that end with classic garnishes like this.
And this is really crucial that you finish this off with the onions and the mushrooms.
Otherwise, this is not a proper bourguignon.
We want to color these for about three or four minutes.
Look at the mushrooms.
Look.
Mushrooms and onions, nicely colored.
And then we pop that into our stew to finish it.
Pop this back on the stove.
Take out the little bouquet garni.
There you go, little fella.
It's done its job.
Touch of black pepper and a little bit of salt.
[upbeat music] So with the carrots, we can just drain these off.
♪ ♪ Quite hot.
And then what we'll do is grab some of our beef bourguignon and then have a taste.
That is proper cooking.
Any more wine?
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): My culinary adventure in Burgundy has brought me to the region's capital, Dijon.
Now, it may have some pretty special gingerbread, but this city is famous for one thing above all else.
Now I'm heading en route to a factory that's been running for years and years that makes the king of all French condiments-- Dijon Mustard.
[french music] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): The city of Dijon has been synonymous with mustard since as far back as the 13th century.
The surrounding area has an ideal terrain for cultivating mustard seeds, and it produces verjus, a particular grape juice that became a key ingredient.
That's why you have places like La Moutarderie Fallot, a family business in Beaune, that's been making mustard since 1840.
♪ ♪ It's run by Mark Désarménien, grandson of founder Edmond Fallot, and he's invited me over for a little mustard mixing session.
So, Mark, this used to be the old factory.
Yes, that's the oldest Dijon mustard factory that we have in France.
It has been established since 1840.
1840?
1840, yes.
And this beautiful car is a little bit later?
Yes, it was the car of my grandfather.
It's a Peugeot 201, and it has been built in 1928.
JAMES: It's fantastic.
MARK: Yeah, It's fantastic car.
Now, why this area and why mustard?
You know because it's very important to learn how we can produce your own mustard.
It's very easy.
We use mustard seeds coming from Burgundy.
That's the best origin.
JAMES: And mainly dark mustard seeds?
MARK: Yes, it's Brown.
Brown mustard seeds is a special variety.
And to produce a good Burgundy or Dijon mustard, you have to use a high percentage of seeds.
That's what we do.
Now, your family has been making mustard for, what, three generations?
Three generations.
I'm the third generation.
I'm born in Beaune.
And, you know, it's a tradition of making a good mustard in our family.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And if you want to have a go at home, you add white wine vinegar to dried mustard seeds, and then sprinkle in a little salt.
And after we crush it, to have a-- a seed-style mustard.
People don't realize mustard is made so simple.
It's just-- But it's hard to produce it.
Yeah, it's not easy, but-- - Because it's a-- - --relative.
You've got three ingredients, as simple as that.
And a bit of elbow grease.
It's much easier if you buy it.
There is a clock on there.
It was 5 o'clock when we started.
You can take your finished product if you wish.
It will be better.
No, it's fine.
I have one in there.
JAMES: No, we'll carry on.
MARK: In the basket.
No.
What else to do?
Do you have a taste?
Yes, I want to taste yours.
- You want to taste mine?
- Yeah.
The pressure is on now.
Go on then.
Thank you.
Very, very good.
A little bit too liquid, because maybe you need more seeds.
[laughter] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): OK a little more seed, then mix it up again, and it's starting to look more like the real deal.
Take two on the tasting.
♪ ♪ It's a little bit bitter because it's fresh.
You need time to have a strong mustard.
More time?
Yes, more time.
But it's very, very good.
It's good though, isn't it?
Very crunchy and I love it.
JAMES: It kind of goes to show a simple, basic ingredients, a little bit of white wine, touch of salt, mustard seeds.
MARK: That's all.
JAMES: That's all you need.
That and about three days.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): They say all good things come to those who wait.
And in the time it takes you to whip up a batch of mustard, you could have made this-- my hearty take on pot roast chicken served with wild mushrooms.
Right, now for another classic dish, coq au vin.
It's all about the bird for this one, particularly a male bird, because this would always be made with a cockerel, a big, big cockerel.
Nowadays you can use any chicken you want, but this dish is perfect for sort of a dinner party.
But also what I love is white wine, particularly Burgundy white wine.
This is Montrachet.
This is my favorite, favorite wine in the world.
Now, when you think about coq au vin, you think about red wine instantly.
But there's different variants of it all over France.
If you go to Champagne, they cook it with Champagne.
And you can cook it with white wine, white Burgundy, like this stuff.
It's delicious.
Absolutely delicious.
So first thing we do, we're just going to remove the little tops of the legs and then take the legs off.
♪ ♪ Then we take the little winglets off.
♪ ♪ And then we can think about our crown straight through there.
And you end up with this piece here.
You can use that for soups.
You can use that for sauces.
But I'm just going to use the crown and the legs for this one.
So first of all, we need to color the legs and the winglets.
A bit of salt, a bit of pepper.
Now, classically, the pieces of chicken would be marinated for about 24 hours in red wine, and then you'd seal that off with a bit of flour.
And so often it's too thick and too stodgy.
However, the way I'm going to cook it is slightly different.
I'm going to pot roast it.
Now, pot roasting is a unique way of cooking because the legs are quite tough, so they sit into the mixture.
Into the pot, the bottom of the pot where the liquid is, the legs cook thoroughly.
And the crown, this part here, which is nice and tender, sits above it and roasts, hence the pot roasted.
So we seal that off nicely.
You want a decent bit of color on there.
And then taking your pot, put the thighs and the legs in the bottom with the little winglets.
And then we can fry off our lardons.
You can use bacon for this if you want.
Here we go with our shallots.
These are whole shallots.
I'm going to pop in some diced onion as well.
You can throw those in so they all get fried off.
In there now, we can throw in our mushrooms.
These are little Chestnut mushrooms.
They can go in.
A bit of garlic.
But to add a nice bit of flavor into this, start to color this gently.
Need a little bit of butter.
Now we're going to deglaze it with the wine.
♪ ♪ And then some chicken stock, pop that in as well.
♪ ♪ And you just bring this to the boil, and then we can pour this over the top of our thighs.
There you go.
A bit of parsley.
And then finally, we can sear off the crown.
♪ ♪ Now, flip this over so you get the nice color to the chicken.
Again, salt and pepper.
And we lift this off and pop it into your pot.
And all we do is just hide it with the lid.
Stick it in the oven.
It wants about 30, 40 minutes in the oven while we make our garnish for our coq au vin.
And you can't have coq au vin without proper mashed potato.
And I say proper mashed potato, because this is where the argument kicks off between chefs.
Because I think proper mashed potato should be this.
It should be equal quantities butter, cream and potato.
We start off with potato, butter, some double cream.
A bit of salt, bit of pepper.
We mix this together.
A little bit more cream.
And don't go ruining this and try and do this at home and reaching the cupboard and go, I got cream, Doreen, we're going to have to use yogurt.
It's not the same.
It's got to be cream.
That's what I'm looking for.
Now finally, we're going to get our garnish on for our coq au vin.
It's just a few sauteed wild mushrooms.
I've got some chanterelles, girolles, but I just love these.
I couldn't resist.
They sell them in markets all over France.
Look at that, trompette de la mort.
Chuck a few of those in.
[sizzling] Now, throughout the journey that I've had through France, the team here says you've got to concentrate more on the garnish.
You've got to make it look pretty.
I like food that looks like food I want to eat, not food that I want to just sit and look at.
This is what real food is all about, food that looks good but it tastes good.
It's not over messed around with.
There's no foam.
There's none of that sort of stuff, no slaking it on the plate.
It's just food.
That's all it is.
♪ ♪ Just food.
Cheers.
♪ ♪ [quirky music] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): I'm nearing the end of my time in Burgundy.
So far, I've sampled the region's famous culinary landmarks-- the pinot noir, pain d'epices, and of course, the Dijon mustard.
But now I fancy going a bit off plan.
So I've come to this amazing market, a little south of Dijon, to get some inspiration for my final dish.
There's loads and loads of different types of garlic.
Often, people just think garlic is garlic and it's all the same.
There's just tons of varieties, different colors, different shapes.
And interestingly enough, there's a smoked garlic there.
But we have black garlic in the UK as well.
MAN: That's the excellent.
[french]?
This is like, the best garlic of the area really.
I don't know what I'm going to do with that, but I've got to buy it.
[french] Now, garlic is produced obviously all over the world, but the best place to grow garlic in the UK-- a little trivia here-- Isle of Wight.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Before you write in, there are loads of other places it's grown in the UK, I know.
But hey-ho, that's what I think.
I'm definitely going to buy these and cook with these.
These are girolles, absolutely beautiful and masses of them as well.
They're a type of wild mushroom really.
You can get them dried as well, but when you get them fresh like this at a market for a cook, you can't help but buy them.
I don't know what I'm going to do with them yet, but I'm definitely going to cook with them.
Monsieur, [speaking french] three.
Now the key to this really is not getting them too small, but not getting them too large.
You want a medium sort of size mushroom.
But so often you see these sort of dried.
But when you get them fresh like this in the market-- and these are actually reasonably priced as well.
[speaking french].
10 euros, bargain.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Job done, so it's back to Francois's vineyard we go to get cooking.
And I know exactly what I'm going to make.
It'll include those marvelous mushrooms, the garlic, and some chicken livers.
If you're put off by liver, give this dish a go, because it's full of flavor.
It's flavored with a bit of cream, touch of mustard.
And then the important bit is right at the very end, which I'll get onto in a minute.
But the first thing I've got this wonderful like, Pugliese, this sort of rustic sourdough bread, a little bit of oil.
And basically, just toast this in a little bit of oil.
Nice hot pan.
Now, this is going to be a sort of a garlic crouton really.
And I couldn't resist buying this from the market.
This rose garlic, it's wonderful.
Look at the color of that.
Fabulous.
And then I'm going to do with this is just get a nice piece of garlic like that and then just toast off the bread.
Probably add a little bit of butter to get it going, just to help it brown a little bit.
[sizzling] Just a little bit of butter in the pan to just allow it to brown nicely.
Now, just lift off our big chunky crouton and then brush it with the garlic just to flavor it.
Now, really, you can get everything ready really for this.
It's quite a quick dish to finish, really.
So a nice hot pan and then you can prepare the mushrooms.
The key to this really is with all mushrooms, don't wash them.
They have all the moisture like a sponge.
And they basically soak in all that moisture.
And then you end up trying to fry them and it doesn't work.
You just end up with a lot of froth around the edge of the pan.
So again, a little bit of butter.
[sizzling] Throw the mushrooms in.
I almost put these to one half of the pan really because the other half I'm going to pop in the chicken livers, which I also got from the market, fresh chicken livers.
And the key to cooking liver, really, in all forms, is speed, quick cooking.
But also, leave it alone in the pan.
And what I mean by that, a lecturer told me-- well, teacher, because I was only about eight at the time.
When I was cooking in a little kitchen in the North somewhere of England, and he turned round and he said, the key to cooking stuff like this is to treat it like your wife.
I was eight.
He said, leave it alone.
It'll be perfectly happy.
The same thing with this piece of liver.
Look, just leave it and it'll color nicely.
You don't want it anemic, so it's a good idea just to leave it in the pan.
Don't need to mess around with it too much.
Once you get a nice bit of color on it, then we can start to turn it over.
So I'll get a little seasoning, black pepper.
Now really when you do this, the clock's ticking because the liver doesn't want to be well done.
So it wants to be nice and pink.
So flip over the liver as that is.
We can mix the mushrooms in now, and now I can get ready with everything else.
Because it is quite a quick dish, this.
I'm going to use some of this mustard, just a touch of mustard.
Some onion-- I like to use spring onions for these because the speeds of which you can cook it with.
A little bit of spring onion.
That can go in the pan as well.
Quickly mix this around.
Now, the clock's ticking for this one.
You don't want to overcook the livers.
So now at this point, what else have we got?
Cream.
A tiny bit of double cream just to bring it all together, really.
And then the key to cooking liver is this stuff, sherry vinegar.
Whether you're cooking liver, calves liver, chicken livers, duck livers, sherry vinegar at the end makes it taste amazing.
Just a little drizzle of sherry vinegar.
It adds a nice little piquant to it, a little spice to it, which is perfect.
Some chopped parsley.
Keep the heat on as hot as it will go.
A little bit of parsley in there as well, and then you just bring all this lot together.
It's really simple, this, but it's full of flavor.
And all we do is lift off our livers onto the toast.
Now, I've got these amazing chanterelles, but at home any mushrooms will do, particularly field mushrooms, because they've got a nice earthy flavor, which lends itself really well together with this.
Needs a little bit more.
Now it's quite unusual putting cheese with stuff like this, but I couldn't resist because I actually nicked this idea from a restaurant that I was at while we've been on our travels, Comté.
What you do with this, get yourself a peeler and peel the Comté like that and lay these pieces over the top.
And there you have it-- a quick, simple little dish.
I'm quite proud of that.
That is proper grub.
My work here is done.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Voila.
My pan fried chicken livers with those marvelous market chanterelles and a Dijon mustard sauce, all served on pink garlic-infused sourdough toast.
Magnifique.
♪ ♪ It's time to leave Burgundy, and it's fair to say the people here are serious about their food.
And I quite like the fact that they're still kind of set in their ways with a lot of things.
They value tradition.
And yeah, it's fine, we can all move forward and iPhones, and iPads, and automatic gearboxes.
But I don't know.
When you see places like this just feels somewhat proper.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And Burgundy is the perfect example of this.
It's a place where grand traditions are preserved across centuries, where a handful of local ingredients create true culinary icons.
That, and about three days.
As long as you've got a bit of time.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And of course, it's home to some of France's most celebrated wines.
It's pretty good, that.
I love this country.
Around every corner, there's another adventure waiting to happen.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): It's just a shame there aren't any corners on this road Oh, well, see you next time.
♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ JAMES: --didn't have to spend hours making puff pastry.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Coming up on my French adventure in Burgundy, I visit an old gingerbread factory with a strict dress code.
I feel like a giant tea bag.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And I put some of that local wine to good use back home.
♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): My culinary Odyssey through France has brought me to beautiful Burgundy, one of the nation's most famous wine regions.
Any more wine?
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): Coming up on my French adventure through Burgundy, I get a touch of the old mustard makers elbow.
It's much easier if you buy it.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And I cook up a rustic one pot wonder back home.
Delicious.
[quirky music] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): My culinary adventure in Burgundy has brought me to the region's capital, Dijon.
[music playing] Still to come on my French adventure in Burgundy, I search for inspiration for my final dish.
I don't know what I'm going to do with that, but I've got to buy it.
JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): And I recall some words of wisdom from my old cooking teacher.
JAMES: And he turned around and he said, the key to cooking stuff like this is to treat it like your wife.
I was eight.
[quirky music] JAMES MARTIN (VOICEOVER): I'm nearing the end of my time in Burgundy.


- Food
Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Television
Transform home cooking with the editors of Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Magazine.








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